2012 Sencha Kaori & Some Thoughts on “Perfect Teas”

Christmas holiday, finally. At last, I should have enough time to talk about all the interesting teas that have been accumulating on my shelf for quite a while.

Let's start with yet another Katahira – or let's get back to Katahira, to be more accurate. Here's a tea from this great Nunosawa, Shizuoka-based producer I haven't talked about yet – a tea, which is, among his classic Senchas, presumably of the highest grade.

Purchased from Pu-erh.sk quite a while ago, Sencha Kaori was picked in May 2012 and is a blend of four different breeds - 30% Ó Iwase, 30% Meiryoku, 20% Yamanoibuki, 20% Saemidori.

Its leaves are long, light-steamed shiny green needles, very beautiful and obviously processed with great amount of care. They have a sweet, fine smell; one that is fresh, fruity and creamy.

  

 

  

The first infusion is light-yellow in color and gets gradually more opaque as it cools down. Its taste is sweet, very refined, deep and complex – from tones of ripe fruit, such as pears and gooseberries, to sweet cream, milk and vivid umami, almost reminiscent of half-shaded or shaded teas. These notes are continued in a long, mouth-filling aftertaste, again very deep and sweet, though also fresh and very fruity.

The second infusion is yellowish-green in color, very clear and slightly cooler in taste. Again, tones of fruit, sweet cream, umami, deepness and overall refinement. A medium-long aftertaste; slightly lighter than before, more refreshing and, for a second brew, still very sweet without any sharp notes.

Two more infusions are made of these leaves; the third one still a deep, complex brew with sweet fruity and creamy notes, getting just a bit drier in the ending.

The fourth, the final – light green color, a lighter, drier and simpler taste, less deep, though still mostly fruity, creamy and very clear. This taste stays in the mouth for along time, the aftertaste still doesn't get any less refined. All the sweetness and creaminess previously encountered, still not planning to leave. Impressive.  

I've purposely made the taste notes shorter this time to get to the question already mentioned in the name of this post - this tea seems almost perfect. Sometimes I think it's too perfect, actually. There's this thing about such high-grade, traditional Sencha teas, especially the blended ones – they are very refined and good from all points of view, mostly, which, actually, detracts a bit of surprise from the experience. It is important to say that this has nothing to do with quality of tea in any way – it's just a matter of personal preference. I seem to enjoy teas that are able to surprise me, teas that get stuck in my mind for whatever reason more than teas which are just great – in a classic, conservative, traditional way. Just one example, purposely from the same producer – Sencha Tsuyuhikari.

This tea, Sencha Kaori, tastes exactly how it's supposed to taste. Exactly how a Sencha of such a high grade is supposed to taste. There is absolutely nothing wrong with that.

It's just that sometimes I think tea is quite similar to people. When you're around someone who is perfect all the time, there is quite a high chance you are going to get bored.

Of course, these teas are not meant to be consumed every day, so such case probably isn't going to happen.

This is definitely a great tea. Try it, drink it, enjoy it. You won't be disappointed.

You might not be surprised. But, after all, that is not what these teas are meant to do.

2012 Sencha Ohira

This is the second of two samples kindly sent by Peter Stanik of Pu-erh.sk some time ago – I talked about Kabuse Daitsuin, the first one, in the previous post.

So, just a quick reminder – these teas come from Ohira tea estate located in Shizuoka and are grown in what can be considered a mountainous area – elevation of 500-1000 meters.

  

Ohira's Sencha has shorter, presumably middle-steamed leaves, lot of them broken, but overall quite attractive, shiny and dark-green. Their smell is sweet, fresh and slightly roasted.

  

The first infusion is light green in color and just as light on tongue; its soft, clear taste comprises tones of roasted nuts, almonds, creamy sweetness and milkiness. This tea is far less fruity than most Senchas from Shizuoka, instead providing an interesting combination of warm, nut-like notes and light, soft character – in a way, it almost reminded me of some higher-grade Kamairicha. Its aftertaste is quite warm, sweet and very refined. This is something that Sencha Ohira shares with its Kabuse counterpart – this unusual, refined lightness and purity, that, in my opinion, might be a result of its high-mountain origin. Interestingly, it keeps this lightness even with higher dosage of leaves and longer brewing time. A big positive in my eyes, especially with Japanese teas, which are often very easy to overbrew.
The second infusion is again light green in color, while its taste is now slightly sharper and slightly fruitier – tones of almonds, milk and plums. Though still very soft and fine, this brew also gains on the typical Sencha green freshness, while it loses a bit of the former roasted tone. Its aftertaste is now more vivid; still warm and sweet, but less creamy and more fruity. 

The third infusion is light green, completely transparent and has a taste profile similar to the second brew. While quite sharp, it maintains the lightness, purity and some of the former creamy sweetness, though it now showcases more of the fruity tones – again, plums. These are accompanied by slightly spicy nuances, as well as a hint of woodiness. The aftertaste is medium-long, mouthfilling and less sweet than before, dominated by fruity sharpness.

The last, fourth brew is sharp and simple. Green color, spices, woodiness. Warm, humble finish.

2012 Kabusé Daitsuin

Peter Stanik, the owner of Pu-erh.sk, kindly sent me samples of two new Japanese teas in his offering, teas that seemed interesting just from reading the description – one Sencha and one Kabusecha from Ohira tea estate, a grower who's never sent his teas abroad before. Moreover, grown in mountainous part of Shizuoka – when talking about Japanese teas, elevation of 500-1000 meters above sea level can almost be considered high-mountain.

First, I have decided to try Ohira's Kabuse. This tea has shorter, probably medium-steamed (chumushi) leaves; beautiful shiny, dark green, almost blueish needles. They emit a soft, sweet smell of ripe fruit, flowers and cream.

The preheated Shiboridashi intensifies this aroma. As the water cools down, the first infusion is prepared – transparent, light yellow in color, with a taste that is round, clear and light - lighter than most shaded or half-shaded teas, actually. Tones of grapes, milk, hazelnuts and apple juice. Though light overall, this brew also shows significant amount of umami and warm, creamy sweetness. Long, refined aftertaste; not too strong, not that aggressive, but indeed complex, deep and dominated by green grapes and light sweetness. All this accompanied by a calming effect on mind, again, different from most Kabuse teas – again, quite light, yet perceivable.

  

The second infusion gains strength as expected. Its color is now green, still transparent and very clear. This brew tastes slightly sharper, though still very light and pure, with strong umami, predominant fruity tone of apples and grapes, followed by creamy sweetness, milk and nuts. The aftertaste is, again, light but long, just a little shorter than before, very pure and with nuances of fresh, green fruit, vanilla and leaves an unexpected feeling, reminding me of pines and conifer forests – a walk in the mountains, almost. I'm always fond of such an effect in Japanese teas.

The third brew keeps the second's green color and returns to the rounder character of the first infusion, though providing less deepness and more of the nutty, spicy tones with slightly weakened sweet, milky notes. Still very pure and light, this brew has a medium-long aftertaste, more mouth filling than before and dominated by vanilla, hazelnuts and apples.

One more infusion is prepared with significantly hotter water; a touch of sweetness, green freshness and spicy, woody simplicity. A warm, satisfying finish.